Fujikawa Maru

The Fujikawa Maru is one of the most dived wrecks in the lagoon. It was also our favorite! So much so, we dived it twice. This impressive ship underwent a drastic upgrade from her pre-war, passenger-cargo role to a full blown armed aircraft transport ship and seaplane tender. She now sits in around 35 meters of water, and is home to incredible schools of fish, and her holds are packed full of fascinating artefacts.

Fish schooling at the bow of the Fujikawa Maru. This wreck was so spectacular, we dived it twice!
Zero fighter planes in the hold of the Fujikawa.
Sam, contemplating the bow gun on the Fujikawa
The old outboard engine. Sits in front of ordinances and an old machine gun, propped up on some more guns. A typical kind of scene to expect in Chuuk Lagoon.
“Off in to the blue”
The growth and fish life on the beautiful, old Fujikawa were just astounding. After both dives, we all came up with incredulous expletives about how stunning the wreck was.
The Fujikawa super structure is amazing, and on our second dive to the wreck, the viz allowed us a greater scope of the size of the ship.
55 gallon oil drums in the hold. Jumbled, falling but stuck in time, covered in delicate and super fine silt.
Trinkets and artefacts found and collected in to one place over the years, only to be consumed by the silt, algae and time.

Rio De Janeiro Maru

The Rio De Janeiro Maru was a 137 meter passenger-cargo liner, built in Japan before WWII. She was a work horse of the pre-war world, carrying emigrants from Japan, to South Africa, Brazil and on to the West Coast of America, before returning home, on many voyages. However, during the war, she became a submarine tender, and then a cargo transport vessel. She arrived in Chuuk six days before Operation Hailstone, full of munitions, and desperately needed supplies. She languished in a slow death, after being hit by several 1,000 pound bombs in the first strikes of the day. It apparently wasn’t until about 3 am the following morning that she finally sank to her current resting ground.

Stacks and stacks of beer bottles sitting in hold number 5 of the Rio. Some of them are still in their original wooden boxes!

Bottles in crates on the wall, no wait, spin around, it is actually the floor, or is it the ceiling, it’s easy to get confused in the gloom. Large letters sitting proud in the lopsided bow, spelling the old name, in both Kanji and Roman lettering, amid the sediment and fish. Swim through in to the large cavernous storage decks, taking a peak in to the last moments of the ship, frozen in time. The static prop, once propelling the tons of steel and men through the water to destinations unknown, now sitting, coated in pristine and colorful coral and fish.

The coral growth along the Rio is very beautiful. As she sits reasonably shallow (10-15 meters on the port side of the hull), one can spend a long time admiring the young ecosystem that has formed.
A lantern that has carefully been placed on the deck of the Rio, to try to encourage people not to scavenge. Sadly, for the future divers, it still happens.

Maximum depth to the seafloor is 35 meters, but her port side sits in a nice shallow 10-17 meters. The holds took us to about 28 meters, but there is so much to look at on her hull, one can spend ages ascending slowly.

On the wreck, directions get changed around, up is port, down is starboard, the floor is the wall and the walls are the floors. This is the portside hand rail.. who knows, someone may have farewelled a loved one holding on to this rail over 80 years ago.

Shane Breen

Tasmanian underwater photographer, Shane Breen, joined us for the weekend. Shane spends a lot of time diving the beautiful waters of Tasmania and really appreciated a weekend dedicated to diving Port Arthur.

Shane taking time out from his subject to smile at the camera… He’s not used to being one the other end of the lens!

I have been diving with Shane for a few years now. Shane started diving in Tasmania over thirty years ago, and then took a break. When diving with Shane, you will always find him behind a camera.

Beautiful zoanthids, gently framed by the fascinating featherstars (Comanthus tricoptera) and sponge gardens. Image: Shane Breen
The intricate structures of feather stars like these ones make great photographic subjects. Image: Shane Breen

Shane had a really great weekend and enjoyed diving with a focus on photography. For him, it was really refreshing to be able to take time over a photo and look up and see your buddy doing the same thing and not swimming off into the distance. Out of the water, Shane found the opportunity to discuss equipment and techniques also beneficial. Thanks Shane for joining us over the weekend!

Image: Shane Breen
Shane was lucky enough to find one of these beautiful and rare species, the weedy seadragon (Phyllopteryx taeniolatus). Aren’t the colors stunning! Image: Shane Breen

Be sure to check out Shane’s other images at: facebook.com/SBreenunderwater or

Andreas Modinger

Find out a bit about one of our Tasmanian Underwater Photography Weekend participants, Andreas Modinger. Andreas travelled to the Tasman Peninsula, all the way from Victoria to join us!

Andreas concentrating on one of his many subjects over the weekend.

Andreas, you’ve been diving for a while now, what got you in to diving?

I had a friend who was a commercial diver who actually got me interested in diving. Originally it was for crayfish and abalone but it quite quickly developed into just for the love of diving. Recently I just became a PADI Instructor because I now want to teach my kids who also want to see the world I keep showing them photos of.

The superb feather hydroid (Gymnangium superbum) is actually an animal! They’re relates to jellyfish, anemones and corals! Image: Andreas Modinger

What is is about underwater photography that you love the most?

The macro world always shows something different than what you see with your eye. This is why I love the closeup view of the aquatic world.

Some of the beautiful sponges that can be found deeper than 18 meters depth around the temperate waters of Tasmania. Image: Andreas Modinger

When asked what he liked most about the weekend, Andreas said he enjoyed having a full weekend to practice different types of shooting.  He also really loved the relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere.  I think we can all agree, the second day was fantastic!

Feather stars like these (Comanthus trichoptera), are easily mistaken for a type of plant on Tasmanian reef systems. Image: Andreas Modinger

Andreas shoots these stunning images with an Olympus TG-5 with Ikelite housing and optically connected Olympus strobe. Check out more of Andreas’ awesome shots on his Instagram page: instagram.com/andreas_diving

These yellow zoanthids (Parazoanthus sp.) cover large swathes of rocky overhangs, and are extremely fascinating to watch. Image: Andreas Modinger

Life on Gili T – Part 1

I love Indonesia. Seriously. I can never quite put my finger on it, but I think it has something to do with the people, the approach to life and the food. Man, I love Indonesian food. Consequently, when I decided it was time to continue my diving adventure, by undertaking my Instructor Development Course, I looked at people and places in Indonesia. During my searching, I found out about the fantastic Holly McLeod, based out of Trawangan Dive Center, Gili Trawangan. So, after about 18 months of emails, a few hours of flights, a humid boat trip, and lugging my 25kg suitcase of dive gear up the beach, I was on the idyllic, Gili Trawangan (Gili T).

There are plenty of beaches on Gili T where there aren’t so many tourists… generally associated with a lack of bars in the area.

There is so much to say about my month on Gili T that I decided to write two blogs about it. So just a heads up, this is all the above water stuff, life, food, cool things to do.. Stay tuned for the diving one soon!

There are a couple of ways to get to Gili T. I chose what I thought at the time, was to be the easier one. Unfortunately (for me), everyone else thought flying in to Denpasar airport during Australian school holidays was also a great thing to do. Consequently, after over two hours in line at the immigration office, I managed to get my gear, and was hoping that my lift was still waiting. As I went through customs, my spiky massage ball set off all sorts of alarm bells and I had to spend the next twenty minutes explaining to customs why I had a small bomb shaped item among copious amounts of camera gear. I was near certain that my driver had fled, finding something better to do than wait in the 30 degree humidity for some stupid white girl. But no, the saint of a man had waited for a full two and a half hours!!

The following day I was collected by a van, to travel to Padang Bai (South east Bali), to get on a boat. If only it were that easy… Of course, I had not quite the amount of cash I needed (further inspiring the image of stupid white girl) for the boat trip. On the back of a scooter, I jumped, to head to an ATM somewhere in the jungle of Bali (ok, not really, but my life flashed before my eyes at least once on the 2 minute trip). Cash in hand, I returned, and guiltily had to buy a plastic water bottle to get the correct change for the driver. Great, now I’m a stupid white girl who cant get the right amount of money, with a single-use plastic water bottle. So much for that $50 life straw bottle, and no waste traveling!! I worked on easing my guilt as I watched the stunning landscape of Indonesia wash past. Out past Lembongan and Bali as the fast boat cruised its way with 750 horse power transporting about 200 tourists to Lombok and the Gili Islands. About an hour and a half later, we were unceremoniously dropped on the white sandy beaches of Gili T. I dragged my heavy duty suitcase through the sand and headed off towards the dive shop.

The main street of Gili T (Jl. Pantai Gili Trawangan) is generally bustling with these horse drawn carts and tourists on bicylces.. pedestrians on foot basically give way to everything.

Gili T is your post-high school, gap-year one stop shop for pretty much anything you want to try your hand at. Getting drunk at 2 am, listening to reggae, snorkelling, turtle selfies, free diving, SCUBA diving, stand-up-paddle boarding, yoga, stand-up-paddle yoga… you name it.. you can pretty much do it, all the while accompanied by the beautiful sincerity and politeness that is Indonesian hospitality. So, as I slowly wandered along the main street of Gili T, I was not so shocked to find the street was lined on one side by the beach and the other by alternating caf├ęs, dive shops, bars and convenience stores (Gili Mart). Little did I know, however, that I had arrived a week before Ramadan, and the mosque would become both my 5am alarm clock and 10pm lullaby (and all round general theme tune).

Don’t forget to cuddle a cat a day whilst on Gili T.. there are plenty! Any that hang around a store and have a little nick out of their ear are generally well looked after, and have been spayed and vaccinated by the Cats of Gili, a non-profit, animal welfare project helping Gili’s cats!

Life very quickly settled in to a pleasant and relaxing routine. I spent a lot of time in the classroom working with my colleagues on our PADI Instructor Development Course (stay tuned for the next blog). Outside of class time we would explore the island, pet some cats, avoid being trampled by horse carts, visiting the sunset side for a quiet beer, and when I was truly motivated, getting up in time for sunrise out the front of my dive shop, Trawangan Dive Center.

Sunset, at least a weekly journey to watch the last rays of the day, generally accompanied by a few beers.

Food was cheap and easy to find. My breakfast routine generally consisted of a croissant at the bakery, lunch was at a little unassuming warung that I nearly missed the first day (which I never knew the actual name of, everyone just called the owner, Nasi Lady…) The directions were apparently simple, go down the alley, and she is right at the end… unfortunately the alley looked more like a rat hole, with barely enough width for one person to walk. But the food was worth it! By the end of my stay on Gili T, I had two favorite places to eat for dinner, the night market (more specifically, one store at the night market) and a vegan resto called Pituq. I ate a lot of nasi campur, which, in essence, was an Indonesian buffet served with rice. There are plenty of delicious juices and drinks to have, just make sure you’re explicit with your “no straw please” request.

FOOD!!!! The night market had a few stalls like this one, but this one was the best. The options changed frequently, and a meal would generally set you back somewhere between $2-4.50 AUD a night (depending on how much diving one had done that day…)

Accommodation was just as easy. I had booked one night in a private bungalow at Beach Box bungalows, two streets back from the dive shop. After I had checked in, my host offered my bungalow to me for 2 million Rupiah (approximately $200 AUD), for the whole month. It was basic, and I only had a fan, but considering the only time I spent there was to sleep, it did its job. But you don’t have to slum it. There are some incredible resorts on Gili T. After our group passed our instructor exam, we held a party at the Kelapa Villas. These incredible villas come with their own pools, and the accommodation is spacious and clean. Well worth a stay if your budget is bigger than mine! If you’re going to the island for diving, most of the bigger dive centers have accommodation and restaurants attached. Just imagine, if you really wanted, you could eat, sleep and dive without ever leaving the dive shop!! (but where is the fun in that??)

My home for the month. You can find many similar bungalows and home stays all around the island, you just decide how near or far the hubbub you want to stay, and how much you want to spend.

I had many people from back home ask me about the plastic pollution situation on Gili T. In short, yes, there is more plastic than somewhere like here in Tasmania. And yes, it can be quite confronting. One of the best things however, when you find it gets you down is there is something you can do about it!!! There are a lot of new initiatives around plastic waste in Indonesia and South East Asia in general! One of the very first ones I discovered was the RefillMyBottle initiative. The was a great salve to my recently dented eco-ego, with that single-use plastic bottle still weighing heavily on my mind. RefillMyBottle is a website and app where business owners can register their businesses that have bottle refill stations, and Gili T has had a fantastic uptake of this by the local businesses. The app tells you if the station is free, or if there is a small cost associated (generally around a 5-10c AUD donation). I didn’t buy a single, single-use plastic bottle again for my whole trip.

Beach clean in action! Look at all those eager eco-warriors.

If that wasn’t enough for the eco-minded traveller, there was the Gili Eco Trust. Gili Eco Trust runs initiatives above and below the water. But best of all, they run Debris Free Fridays, where like minded people get together and participate in a 45 minute beach clean, and to add to that warm fuzzy feeling of cleaning a stretch of beach, you get a free Bintang to quench your thirst!! The Trust also run volunteer internship programs for budding eco-warriors, to help run the beach cleans, and assist with the multitude of other initiatives they support including building cages to protect turtle nests during their incubation period. Don’t forget, you don’t have to just go to a specific beach clean to pick up rubbish though.. many a Facetime I had back to Australia was spent on the beach collecting lollipop sticks or the like. Gili Eco Trust and most dive shops also sell dive debris bags, small enough for you to pack in to your dive gear, and very easy to fill on a dive! For $7.5 AUD, its a great little investment.

Sian Williams from the Gili Eco Trust explaining what can and cannot be recycled in Indonesia… look at the difference!! Australia has a lot to learn with it’s recycling programs.

Finally the dive shops! It really depends what you want to do. Almost all dive shops on Gili Trawangan are a part of GIDA (Gili Indah Dive Alliance). GIDA was created almost ten years ago to create a strong, safe and environmentally responsible dive culture on Gili T. There is no price haggling between GIDA dive shops, so if you go to the shop on the island that appears to be cheaper, double check they’re a GIDA member, honestly, it is worth the extra couple of dollars. The alliance have established emergency procedures that all members are involved in. I personally dived out of Trawangan Dive Center (where Gili IDC is based) and had the best time, but as I mentioned, the standard of guiding and instruction is high across all GIDA dive shops, so check out the GIDA website before heading off on your trip to see who their members are, and which shop suits your needs the most. But above all, go to Gili Tfor diving, snorkelling, beach cleaning, and that sneaky vodka joss in jungle at 2 in the morning, you’ll have a great time.

Sunrise over Rinjani, the Lombok volcano that looms over the Gilis.

Lembeh Photography Workshop 2018

2017 – Diving Adelaide for the first time!